I used Hotwire for both flights and hotel. Was definitely nervous about the Hotwire process but put in the hotel parameters, clicked and held breath - lucked out with a 4 Star hotel (Sheraton) minutes walk from all the action. $119.00 a night.
Arrived late afternoon, took the shuttle from the airport ($11.00) and had a painless check-in at the hotel. On the basis of a review in distant memory opted for dinner at Wild Ginger and walked the three blocks in a very light drizzle. Had tried to get a reservation but was told when I said I was alone “don’t worry, we can seat you in the lounge”. I stood, totally ignored after my initial check-in, in the foyer for fully 15 minutes before going back to the hostess and asking again about a table. Another 10 minutes passed and I watched couples and larger groups, quite obviously without reservations, whisked off to tables. Finally I was summoned and lead to the very end of a bar counter in the lounge. The noise was deafening. I don’t how anyone managed conversation without shouting. I was seated facing a blank counter back next to the point of sale station…not especially attractive or relaxing. Menu read like a pricey exotic journey . I ordered “Wandering Sage” soup as a starter and it fell short of all promises -tasteless and luke-warm. Ah well. Try again, my entrée was a posted special …macadamia encrusted halibut on a “green mango” salad. 27 minutes later it arrived along with a bowl of cold sticky rice. The fish was cold. I told the waiter…he whisked it away…it came back 15 minutes later still cold and the rice that remained in front of me was never replaced. Two glasses of very nice pinot gris and a sublime chocolate brule the meal came to $83.00. Would not recommend. Maybe for the non-hungry, affluent and hip it would be a winner!
No rain the next morning and I headed down the hill to Pike Place. Made a one block detour to 1601 3rd. (between Pine and Stewart) and picked up a still warm, flaky croissant to go at Le Brea Bakery. Noted that I could come back at lunchtime and get soup for $4.95 and a sandwich starting at $6.50. Continued on down Pine, right on 1st. and arrived at the market. Made a quick stop at the original Starbucks and took my coffee and croissant to the view point within the market where under cover I sat on a bench looked out over the Sound and ate my breakfast. Wandered the market for over two hours…could have stayed all day. For a foodie this is nirvana! I did learn that the fish stands will pack your order on ice and guarantee it for 48 hours. Succumbed to temptation and bought a wonderful lavender salve and two multi-colored chili strings that were shipped home for me. Also bought a $4.00 bunch of flowers for which the hotel supplied a vase. Next trip I’m going to “have lunch overseas” and take the ferry to Bainbridge Island …a $6.70 cruise. On this trip I stood in line at Piroshky, Piroshky (across from the market) and bought a salmon pate filled piroshky for $5.00….heavenly lunch to go. Wonder when I’ll have time to sample some of the other offerings…cheese and onion sounds great for a cold day!
The free bus runs from the market area down the waterfront to Occidental Park/Pioneer Square. Mindful of a dinner date for that evening, I chose to walk off the croissant and piroshky. To better orient myself first stop was at the neo-classical Smith Tower on Jackson. Built in 1909 by Smith of typewriter fame, this was once the fourth tallest structure in the world and one of the world’s first steel skyscrapers. A $7.00 ticket gets you a ride in the 1914 Otis elevator ( a few years ago the company hired Lost Boys of the Sudan as elevator operators - what a nice touch) to the 35th. floor and the Chinese Room. Be sure to take a look at the famous Wishing Chair. Legend has it that a single woman who sits in the chair will marry within a year.…from this splendid setting you get panoramic views of the city and sound. Next stop was my downfall…the Elliott Bay Book Company. Housed in an old brick building with wooden floors it smells, feels and is the ultimate place for book lovers. No hassles while you browse and I challenge you to leave empty handed. Apart from three books, my prize was a pricey ($34.40) but beautiful hand bound notebook/journal. Cruised the galleries including Jackson Native Art gallery and The Glass House Studio, popped into a coffee shop, fortified myself and walked back to the hotel under light rain…about 30 minutes.
Concierge suggested an afternoon tour…not one for tours I demurred but she assured me that it was going to pour-down all afternoon and I’d be miserable trudging in the rain. I went with Seattle Tours…$45.00 for a four-hour outing. We covered most of my morning route but from the comfort of a mini bus and with Rob, a guide well-versed in Seattle trivia…fun. Driving through China Town/International District we were advised that Hing Loon restaurant on the corner of Weller and Maynard was as ‘good as any place in Hong Kong’…next trip. The tour took in the colorful Fremont neighborhood, home to an annual Solstice bike ride that features riders clad in nothing but body paint (will save that trivia for grandsons), the Fremont Bridge Troll and the first community in the US to have curbside recycling…it’s also got a statue of Lenin but that’s another story. From Western Seattle we looked out over the city misted in a fine drizzle or as my Irish grandmother would say “a light, dry rain”. Last stop was Ballard aka Chittenden Locks built by the Army Corp of Engineers in 1914 (same time frame as the Panama canal). Interesting to note that long before anyone gave a hoot about conservation and environmental planning, a fish ladder was incorporated into the lock system. We did skirt the famous Space Needle and the stunning Frank Gehry designed Experience Music Project Building…saving both of those for a trip with the 7 year old grandson to the Pacific Science Center. Did get a dollar conscious tip from the guide re the Space Needle. $16 for ticket to ride but if you eat in the restaurant your ticket charge is deducted from cost of meal.
 Dinner that night with an old friend at the Dahlia Lounge, noted by Food and Wine as “quintessential Seattle”. This Tom Douglas signature restaurant is unpretentious and superb. You can hear yourself speak, no one rushes you, the menu is exciting, the best of the pacific Northwest with Asian overtones …being a land-locked desert dweller I go for fish whenever I can…my halibut was beyond superb and a starter of crab bites delightful. The quirky dessert of a bag of piping hot mini doughnuts was fun. We shared a lovely Oregon Pinot Noir…fantastic evening and not over the top on prices.
Seattle is a city that invites you to walk and explore…it’s user friendly and I never need an excuse to visit. Nov. 13th. update. Just back from another quick trip to Seattle, this time with seven year-old grandson on tow. Treated like royalty at Dahlia Lounge - but the real purpose of the trip was to visit the Pacific Science Center and the visiting exhibit "Lucy-Hidden Treasures of Ethiopia"...what a treat. And I did try that cheese and onion piroshky...wonderful. I'll let you know how the fish I shipped home fared.
Have you got a favorite get-a-way? Are you willing to share insider information on your home town. Let us in on the secrets, please.
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