Rugged cliffs, sandy beaches, hidden coves, crystalline water, lush vegetation. This is Costa Brava, Spain’s northernmost Mediterranean seafront. The so-called ‘Wild Coast’, stretches from Blanes, north to Barcelona, to Port Bou at the French border. Not surprisingly, the region, which is part of the Catalan Province, has become one of Europe’s most popular travel destinations. Despite large-scale tourist development along the Mediterranean coast, the “Wild Coast” has been able to preserve its authenticity. By some miracle, it has avoided the cliché of the trendy sea-resorts that lure visitors searching for ‘sun, sand, and sangria”. The best time to appreciate the Coast’s beauty is during the off-season. May, June, September and even October are ideal months to discover Costa Brava’s discreet yet powerful charms.
 Wild flowers and ancient ramparts, Costa Brava
Tossa de Mar, “the blue paradise.’ This delightful town boasts the most imposing medieval walls of the region. They are classified a national historical monument. A climb to the top takes about 30 minutes and is worth the effort. At a café overlooking the bay, you’ll catch your breathe while taking pictures of the splendid vistas. On your way down, lose yourself in the small maze of narrow, medieval streets in the Vila Viela (old city) – a long time ago, they seduced Ava Gardner and Frank Sinatra. Sit at La Luna bar for a glass of cava (Spanish champagne) and enjoy the quietness. Or walk to El Paseo del Mar, the esplanade along the beach where locals traditionally meet at sunset. Tossa has inherited a bohemian air from its popularity as an artists’ retreat in the 1930s. Marc Chagall, a frequent visitor, nicknamed the town the ‘blue paradise.’ His works are on display at the Municipal Museum.
Old town Tossa de Mar from the harbor
Cadaques, Dali’s country. The ‘little fishing village,’ as it is still called, remains one of Costa Brava's most visited resorts. Its bay forms Catalonia’s largest natural harbor. During the high season, yachts from all around the world anchor there. Fortunately, the sea town has managed to keep its traditional ambiance. In Cadaques, you are in Salvador Dali’s country. The Catalan artist spent part of his childhood in the fishing village. His house, now converted into a museum, waits for you on the other side of the hill. If you plan to visit it, be prepared to wait in line for a long time. Today, perhaps because of Dali´'s influence, the town's artistic community continues to thrive. Many painters, sculptors, potters and fashion and jewelry designers have set up shops in the cobblestone alleys old city. You can spend an entire afternoon just exploring galleries. Try Taller Galeria Fort, which hosts the annual mini print international exhibitevery summer; Galeria Marges-U, and Gemma Ridameya are the best for jewelry. Everywhere you go owners will be happy to chat with you.
Getting there:
Many carriers fly from JFK Airport in New York to Barcelona. (Continental Airlines just announced a daily non- stop flight.)
From the airport you can rent a car and head to the Coast (Blanes is about one hour away) or hop on a bus. Travelling from Barcelona itself to Costa Brava is easy. Several agencies organize excursions by car, on horse and foot – length is anywhere between half a day to five days. Or you can go by public bus or train. For further information, you may want to check www.costabravaspain.info.
Where to stay:
Costa Brava is sprinkled with small hotels and guest houses (pensiones). Generally, prices start at 60 Euros for a double occupancy room during the low season.
Where to eat:
Blanes: Café Terrassans (Best tapas)
Tossa de Mar: La Cuina de Can Simon (Go for the menu gastronómico)
Cadaques: La Sirena (Excellent paella)
|
