Our April theme of assessing treasures got me thinking about destinations within North America that showcase the natural treasures of this continent and the travel by train article last month got me thinking about great boat rides! Thoughts wandered to the many wonderful trips on the Washington State Ferries from Anacortes to the San Juan Islands. I suppose I’ve lucked out in that in five years of going to the San Juans in either July or August I’ve never had a bad ferry crossing and nor have I experienced bad weather on the islands…maybe a quick local shower but nothing to dampen my affection for this island chain….definitely a jewel to be treasured.
 The San Juan Islands are a part of the San Juan Archipelago in the northwest corner of the continental United States. The archipelago is split into two groups of islands based on national sovereignty. San Juan Islands are part of the U.S. state of Washington, while the Gulf Islands are part of the Canadian province of British Columbia. There are over 450 islands in the entire archipelago at high tide, but fewer than one-sixth are permanently inhabited. Pig War Islands is an interesting book giving the history of the US and Canadian bids to hold sovereignty over the islands. On the US side, only Shaw, Lopez, Orcas and San Juan are served by the state run ferry service. You can arrive by ferry, your boat ,or small plane (sea or land). You cannot make a ferry reservation for your car…it’s a get in line early (at least two hours early) for peak time crossings. I’ve never not got on the ferry of choice but I have seen how far back the line snaked.
Most of my time has been spent on Orcas island with occasional day “cruises” on the ferry to San Juan or Lopez islands. I’ve either rented privately (internet search) or through San Juan Islands Vacation Rentals. Every rental has lived up to its advertisement.
 What is there Not to do on Orcas…. you won’t find big screen TV bars but you will find a few OK restaurants in Eastsound and the coffee shop at the corner of Main Street serves excellent coffee, pastries, soups and sandwiches; the Inn at Ship Bay just a mile out of Eastsound is first rate, many of the recipe’s featuring vegetables grown in the inn’s own garden as well as shellfish that pretty much swims up to the doorstep. The Olga Café way out on Point Lawrence Road is also very good…especially the desserts! For both of these places you need reservations. If you’ve rented a place where you can cook, the island is surprisingly well supplied. There is a supermarket in Eastsound that features local and brought in products. It has an excellent bakery, deli and wine selection. Further down Prune Ally is a natural foods store that offers a good selection of take out as well as locally caught fish and Lopez Island vegetables and fruits. Right at the ferry dock is a deli that is well worth making a trip to for its wide selection of cheeses, olives, smoked salmons….perfect place to pick up a picnic. Saturday mornings Eastsound hosts a farmers market replete with music, island crafts, fresh produce and preserves. It is a true “happening” and not to be missed. If you are a serious food shopper, get there early, things sell out fast.
I’ve only stayed at one hotel on the island and that was the historic Olga Inn right at the ferry dock. Over a hundred years old, creaky and quirky, it’s a fun place for a weekend and the informal restaurant isn’t bad….great fish and chips made with fresh salmon. The views across to Shaw Island are spectacular. I’ve also spent some time at Doe Bay, not staying there but using it as a base for kayaking. It has the air of an old time summer camp with rustic cabins, a clothing optional hot tub (very large) and a small but good vegetarian only café. As an alternative to the cabin, the resort has numerous private camp sites…some of them with spectacular views.
 Orcas is a kids paradise. I’ve had my grandsons there for three years and they can really be boys, climb rocks and trees, fish, swim, skip rocks, skateboard. There is a world class (or so I’m told) skateboard park (free) just out side Eastsound. The Puget Sound waters are far too cold for swimming but Moran State park has a great lake with a roped off swimming area. It’s a very popular spot for family picnics and if the swimming doesn’t tire out the kids, you can rent a paddle boat. From Moran State park you can access Mount Constitution and the many hiking trails, some through old growth forest. A fantastic hike is around Mountain Lake ,my 6 year old grandson managed it (not without some moaning) and the 10 year old aced it. The view from the top 2,409 feet to a stunning 360-degree overlook and tourist-friendly watch tower is awesome. Last year after about 10 years of local effort, a non profit was able to acquire Turtleback Mountain that had long been in private hands and was threatened with development. I didn’t get a chance to explore last year but am told that it is a strikingly diverse habitat for many flowers and critters previously unknown on the island. Considered ecologically fragile it is still under assessment but some gravel road trails have been opened.
 Tired of hiking you can always turn your attention to kayaking. Rentals with guided group tours are available from several outfitters based in Eastsound. Trips depart from Doe Day , the ferry landing or Westsound depending on tides. You are not guaranteed to see the famous pods of killer whales that inhabit the islands during the summer months but you are almost certain to see harbor seals and porpoises close up. Kayaking gets you as close to the water as possible without you sitting in the water and it’s an extraordinarily peaceful way to see the island from afloat. Bike rentals are also available in the village and my impression is of generally courteous road behavior on the part of motorists.
During the summer months there are brown bag concerts on the lawn of the old Episcopal church in Eastsound, visiting symphony and choral presentations at either the village center or Rosario Resort. There is an active amateur dramatic group on the island and their performances get rave reviews. One small movie theater and a video rental place make up culture…but it’s enough. The island pace of life is so seductively conducive to reading, people watching and sea gazing…star gazing too, the night skies are black…that thoughts of being entertained never enter your head. Several cafes offer wireless internet access and if you are staying for more than a couple of weeks and internet is important to you, two places in Eastsound provide access by the month to dial up service. Well worth it if like me, you combine vacation with work.
Whale watching is a big part of visiting the San Juans. Watch boats go out daily during the summer months from Westsound and the ferry landing. I’ve only once been on a dry run…every other time the pods have accommodated us with amazing displays of breaching, spy hopping and in general doing whaley things! It is an awe inspiring sight to see these huge creatures up close and to have the guide reel off the names and point out an 87 year old grandmother. For further information on the Orca whales and the resident pods, take a day trip over to the Whale Museum in Friday harbor on San Juan Island and if a boat trip is not your idea of fun, take the car over to San Juan Island, pack a picnic and head for Lime Kiln Point State Park and watch the whales go by.
Eagles are to Orcas as pigeons are to New York! I’ve seen so many that I take a sighting for granted. I did see, two years ago out towards Point Lawrence, a very wet and cross looking spotted owl. Deer have no natural predator on the island and they are everywhere. At Rosario Resort they are so tame that a mother will let her yearling come up and nuzzle you.
The island is super dog friendly, treats and water bowls outside most stores and most restaurants with an outdoor patio will welcome your dog. The Olga Café is an exception to that rule. Shopping is much of what you would expect of an upscale tourist destination. Lots of island made creams and candles, a very good children’s store (should be a notice warning grandparents that entering is hazardous), a great book shop with a coffee bar in the back. The Olga café has  an attached gift shop featuring very good quality hand woven goods, art and jewelry. Well worth the short ride out of Eastsound is a side trip to Orcas Island Pottery, locally made pottery in an exquisite setting with beautiful gardens and view over Puget Sound. Make the effort and follow the little path down to the beach.
Mid to late August through September the blackberries are ripe and free to all who can be bothered to pick from the hedgerows; an hour of minimal effort and a few scratches can net you enough for pies and cobblers to say nothing of a bowl full. smothered in cream, and nothing tastes so good! Each year I make a few bottles of Blackberry flavored vodka to bring home as gifts and as a reminder of a summer filled with memories. The San Juans are seductive. I guarantee that you can’t visit just once.
Blackberry Flavored Vodka
For each bottle:
Good quality vodka (I use grey Goose)
2 cups ripe blackberries, picked over to remove bits of leaves and stalks.
Pour out a cup of the vodka and save it for another use!
Stuff the blackberries into the bottle leaving about 1/4 inch headroom.
Place the bottle in a dark , cool place (do not refrigerate) and let sit for a minimum of two weeks, turning the bottle over to shake up the contents every day or so.
Strain, discard solids and re bottle. Holding the berries in the vodka up to four weeks intensifies the blackberry flavor.
Useful links
Washington State Ferries
Sea Plane Service
San Juan Islands General information
Book: Pig War Islands: The San Juans of Northwest Washington (Paperback)
by David Blair Richardson
Photo Credits: Nicholas Ilka, Lisa Abrams
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